Is isopropyl myristate comedogenic?
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Grades from the 1989 and 1984 rabbit-ear papers, never estimated.
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Educational, not medical advice. Every line below points to the source it comes from.
What the rabbit-ear test found
In Fulton’s rabbit-ear test, isopropyl myristate scored 5 out of 5 for comedogenicity, and 3 out of 5 for irritation. On Fulton’s own scale, 0–1 is not significant, 2–3 borderline, and 4–5 positive.
These grades come from rabbit ears: the ingredient applied daily, five days a week for two weeks, usually diluted to 10% in propylene glycol. The grade also shifts with the vehicle and the raw-material source, so one number isn’t the whole story.
Its relatives scored high too
Isopropyl myristate isn’t alone at the top of Fulton’s 1989 tables. Several related fatty-acid esters, some sharing its myristic acid or its isopropyl group, graded high as well:
- Isopropyl isostearate: 5
- Myristyl myristate: 5
- Isopropyl palmitate: 4
- Ethylhexyl palmitate (octyl palmitate): 4
- Myristic acid itself: 3
Isopropyl myristate also scored 3 out of 5 for irritation, while every oil with its own page here scored 0.
“Safe” isn’t the same as “won’t clog pores”
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review, the US expert panel that assesses cosmetic ingredients, concluded in 2010 that myristic acid and its salts and esters are safe as used in cosmetics, mostly as skin-conditioning agents. That is a finding about safety at the amounts used. Its abstract doesn’t address clogged pores, so it doesn’t contradict the rabbit-ear grade.
Why the number isn’t the whole story
A human-skin model found the rabbit ear more sensitive than human skin: weak rabbit comedogens were judged probably safe, except perhaps for acne-prone people. When finished products were patch-tested on acne-prone backs, products containing comedogenic ingredients were not necessarily comedogenic.
Comedogenic risk also depends on concentration. Ingredients that clog pores when applied neat showed no effect at the under-15% levels typical of face products, and you cannot tell from an ingredient list whether a product will cause acne — only testing the finished product can.
SourcesMills OH Jr, Kligman AM. A human model for assessing comedogenic substances. Arch Dermatol. 1982;118(11):903-905 (abstract).Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512 (abstract).Kligman AM. Petrolatum is not comedogenic in rabbits or humans: a critical reappraisal of the rabbit ear assay and the concept of 'acne cosmetica'. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1996;47(1):41-48.
What this means for acne-prone skin
The AAD tells acne-prone people to look for products labeled “non-comedogenic” or “won’t clog pores.” But “non-comedogenic” has no FDA definition, so a brand can use the label without any standard test behind it. The honest takeaway: a single comedogenicity number — high or low — is a weak guide. If a product breaks you out, that is the real test.
SourcesAmerican Academy of Dermatology: Acne: Tips for managing.Starzyk T, Aust N, Schur N, Miller R. Comedogenicity in cosmeceuticals: a review of clinical relevance, regulatory gaps, and future directions. JAAD Reviews. 2025;6:78-83 (open access).U.S. Food and Drug Administration: Cosmetics Labeling Claims.
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Questions people ask
Is isopropyl myristate bad for acne-prone skin?
Isopropyl myristate scored high in Fulton’s rabbit-ear test. But even Fulton wasn’t sure that predicts breakouts in people, and later work found products with “comedogenic” ingredients weren’t always comedogenic.
Why is isopropyl myristate in so many products?
It’s an ester of myristic acid, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review says these esters are used mostly as skin-conditioning agents. The panel found them safe as used in cosmetics.
Which similar ingredients should acne-prone people know about?
In the same tables, isopropyl isostearate and myristyl myristate scored 5, and isopropyl palmitate and ethylhexyl palmitate scored 4. The usual caveat applies: these are rabbit-ear grades for the raw ingredient.
What does a comedogenic rating of 5 mean?
On Fulton’s own scale, 0–1 is not significant, 2–3 borderline, and 4–5 positive. But a human-skin model found the rabbit ear more sensitive than human skin, and products with comedogenic ingredients were not necessarily comedogenic in people.
SourcesFulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40(6):321-333.Mills OH Jr, Kligman AM. A human model for assessing comedogenic substances. Arch Dermatol. 1982;118(11):903-905 (abstract).Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512 (abstract).
Can I trust a "non-comedogenic" label?
It is a useful signal — the AAD suggests it for acne-prone skin — but it has no FDA definition, so brands can use it without a standard test. Testing the finished product on your own skin is what settles it.
SourcesAmerican Academy of Dermatology: Acne: Tips for managing.Starzyk T, Aust N, Schur N, Miller R. Comedogenicity in cosmeceuticals: a review of clinical relevance, regulatory gaps, and future directions. JAAD Reviews. 2025;6:78-83 (open access).U.S. Food and Drug Administration: Cosmetics Labeling Claims.
Sources
- Educational content, not medical advice
- Comedogenicity ratings predict real breakouts poorly
American Academy of Dermatologyaad.org
US Food and Drug Administrationfda.gov
Studies and other sources
- Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40(6):321-333.library.scconline.org
- Becker LC, et al. Final report of the amended safety assessment of myristic acid and its salts and esters as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2010;29(4 Suppl):162S-186S (Cosmetic Ingredient Review).doi.org
Myristate esters are used mostly as skin-conditioning agents; the panel found them safe as cosmetic ingredients in current practices of use and concentration. The abstract doesn’t address clogged pores.
- Mills OH Jr, Kligman AM. A human model for assessing comedogenic substances. Arch Dermatol. 1982;118(11):903-905 (abstract).jamanetwork.com
- Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512 (abstract).jaad.org
- Kligman AM. Petrolatum is not comedogenic in rabbits or humans: a critical reappraisal of the rabbit ear assay and the concept of 'acne cosmetica'. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1996;47(1):41-48.library.scconline.org
- Starzyk T, Aust N, Schur N, Miller R. Comedogenicity in cosmeceuticals: a review of clinical relevance, regulatory gaps, and future directions. JAAD Reviews. 2025;6:78-83 (open access).jaadreviews.org